Smoky Make Maple Products is the Midwest’s leader in premium maple syrup production equipment. We offer the highest quality, most efficient flat pans in the world.
Reverse Flow: This divided pan has 3/4″ draw off ports and thermometer ports in both corners allowing for flow reversal. (Stainless steel ball valves are sold separately OR you can upgrade to a float box assembly with extra valve at discount.)
Full Length Handles: The sides are hemmed and contoured offering superior strength and full length handles.
Efficiency: The material used to construct these pans is 22ga mirror finish stainless steel. Many competitors use thicker stainless which is a poor conductor of heat and requires more time to get up to boiling temperature.
Continuous Flow: The dividers on this pan are formed right into the pan body. NO SOLDERING. This makes the pan incredibly strong and helps eliminate possibility of leaking under the dividers. Ask competitors to show pictures of how they install dividers.
Every shipment is guaranteed and INSURED. We have custom, double reinforced, foam lined, cardboard crates made for each of our pans. We treat these pans during transit as the works of art that they are.
3/4″ stainless steel ball valves and thermometers are sold separately.
Instructions For Use:
- Remove all protective vinyl from the pan and other stainless steel parts (if applicable).
- Set the pan on top of your leveled arch. It does not matter which end is facing front because the pan is reversible. We recommend placing a braided rope gasket—which is resistant to high temp—under the edges of the pan in order to prevent cold air from being pulled under the pan.
- At the front end of the pan, there are two ports: a 3/4″ draw-off port and a 1/4″ thermometer port. Plumber’s tape should be used on all threaded connections to enhance seal and prevent binding.
- 3/4″ Draw-off Port: To connect a Smoky Lake Ball Valve to the draw-off port, use a stainless steel nipple. (A nipple is a small piece of hardware with male threads on both ends.)
- 1/4″ Thermometer Port: This port will accept a thermometer with 6″ stem and 1/4″ threads. Alternatively, you could use this port with a temperature probe for an auto draw-off system. If you do not want to monitor temperature, you can cap this port with a stainless steel hex plug.
- At the back end of the pan, there are two ports which are identical to the ones at the front of the pan. Plumber’s tape should be used on all threaded connections to enhance seal and prevent binding.
- 3/4″ Port: If you are adding sap to your pan by hand or with a feed pan, then this port can be plugged with a stainless steel hex plug or another stainless steel ball valve. Otherwise, this port could be used to connect a float box.
- 1/4″ Port: This port can be plugged with a stainless steel hex plug when it is not in use.
- Fill your pan with 2″ of raw sap. You will need to maintain this depth while you are boiling. Never allow the depth to get lower than 1″ as this can cause damage to both your pan and your syrup. Raw sap will always be added to the back corner of the pan. As you boil, a density gradient will develop since the back corner is constantly diluting. The sap will become more and more dense as it approaches the draw-off valve.
- Maple syrup finishes at 7º above the temperature of boiling water. When your thermometer reaches the bold 7 mark, you can open the draw-off valve and draw that syrup into a separate vessel for filtering. It is normal for the temperature to climb a little while you first start to draw off. When temperature drops below the bold 7 on your thermometer, close the draw-off valve. The remaining syrup will need to be boiled longer. If you do not have a thermometer, you will need to monitor syrup progress by doing periodic hydrometer tests. Even if you do have a thermometer, doing a periodic hydrometer test if a good idea. This will verify that your thermometer is calibrated correctly for your current elevation and atmospheric conditions.
- When you shut down your evaporator for the day, some evaporation may continue as the sap will still be hot. Continue to monitor and maintain sap depth until evaporation has stopped.
- The sap that is in your pan should stay in your pan. If you are boiling outside, you may choose to cover your pan to keep debris out of it. The next time you boil, you will pick up where you left off. Some mixing of the gradient may occur between boils. This is ok. The gradient will redefine itself as you start boiling again. Do not wait more than 2–7 days between boils in order to prevent the sap from spoiling. The warmer the weather gets, the quicker the sap will need to be boiled.