Adjusting a Thermometer Port
Divided pans contain a series of connected channels. Raw sap is continuously being added at the back corner of the pan. This new, raw sap, pushes existing sap further into the system. After you have boiled for a while, you will establish what is called a “density gradient”. The “starting point” of the channels will be the raw sap while the sap that is closest to the draw-off valve will be darkest and the highest sugar density. All the sap in between the starting point and ending point is somewhere in between. It will be progressively darker and more condensed as it gets closer to the draw-off valve.
By watching temperature, you will be able to determine when to start and stop drawing off finished syrup. (Syrup finishes at 7ºF above the boiling point of water. See Thermometer instructions for more details.)
There are many different styles of pans that have channels/dividers in them. Regardless of whether the pan has a flat bottom, raised flues or drop flues, the dividers are there to enable “continuous flow boiling”, so you don’t have to make syrup in one big batch. The dividers allow you to draw off syrup little by little.
At the end of the season, when no more raw sap is available to maintain 2″ depth in the pan while boiling, the condensed sap remaining in the divided pan can either be finished in a smaller pot or discarded.
Article: The difference between a Flat Pan and a Divided Pan.
29 Comments
Ron Lusk
So what holds the initial sap in the first quadrant till it’s density is ready to move on when you add new sap? Or do you start by filling the gradient pan partially ten add new sap from your pre warmer?
Angela
The gradient is maintained because raw sap is constantly being trickled into the back corner of the pan. The new raw sap is pushing all the existing sap further through the channels. In contrast, If you were inconsistent about adding new sap to the back corner, then more mixing would occur during boiling and the gradient would be less pronounced. There is nothing holding sap back within a certain channel of the pan. If sap is continuously added to the back corner of the pan, it all works out on its own.
don wila
When make a pan,can you make it so the deviders are going the short distance across the pan?If can or can’t ,please let me know
Angela
Hi Don
Yes, what you are describing is called a “Cross Flow” pan which is available in our Drop Flue or Raised Flue Pan Sets. This style of pan is the top of its class. It’s designed for extremely high output!
In contrast, our standard Divided Pans are “parallel flow”. These have also been very popular, especially with entry level maple syrup producers. This divided pan’s parallel flow construction is more efficient to craft in terms of time, labor and material. Hence, another benefit of its parallel flow construction is that it can accommodate tighter budgets.
We may have a short window available for custom projects this coming May or June. If you would like to explore a custom build at that time, give us a shout. Otherwise, I can tell you that I have first hand experience boiling with the Smoky Lake parallel flow Divided Pans and it was awesome. We made great maple syrup that year.
Rob Acton
How do you regulate and continually add sap to the back corner of the oan, without adding too much or not enough?
Thanks, Rob
Angela
Hi Rob
Yes, there are several tools that can help with this. One is a Feed Pan (which is manually regulated) and the other is a Float Box (which allows you to set a depth and it will maintain that depth automatically.). Another tool that is helpful is a Sight Glass, which allows you to verify the depth in your pans at any time, even during a roaring boil with lots of billowing steam.
Here are even more tips regarding maintaining a beautiful gradient while you are boiling: https://www.smokylakemaple.com/knowledge-base/maintaining-gradient-while-boiling/
Michael Caron
I have boiled 150 gallons of sap on the dauntless divided pan and though my temperature gauge reads seven (and I calibrated it properly), I’m still at only about 62 Brix and no syrup yet. Question 1: is this normal? Question 2: how much sap should I expect to go through before I get syrup? I’m using nice dry wrist sized oak and ash firewood and using a feeder pan with the float box and maintaining a 2” depth.
I’m out of sap for probably a few days because of the temperature here in Connecticut. Question 2: I have the pan covered but is there any concern of mold growing in the unfinished syrup before I boil again in 5 or 6 days?
Kent Leininger
HI Michael
This is my first year using the Dauntless too. My first boil didn’t get up to temp either. This morning its climbing much better. My difference was firing too long between times. Keeping the fire hot is showing a greater improvement so far. HOpe it hits 219; however, my target is 216 to draw through filter, then finish up on the gas to temp and hydrometer scale. Let me know if you have success. Been watching for a reply from someone at Smoky Lake. Enjoy the day.
Angela
We had addressed Mr Caron’s question via email conversation. I apologize I hadn’t realized other folks were waiting to see my reply here! Here is what I had said to Mr Caron:
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If you are at 62 brix, then keep boiling. You are getting closer and closer as you continue boiling. I know that it takes a long time. It is a labor of love. As steam rolls off the pan, the syrup is condensing.
You can use the Jones Rule of 86 to better understand how many gallons of sap it will take to make one gallon of syrup. If you start with raw sap that is 1% sugar vs raw sap that is 2% sugar, the difference is very drastic. Use a sap hydrometer to better understand what kind of sap you are starting with.
Please see this support article for more information: https://www.smokylakemaple.com/knowledge-base/how-long-must-i-boil-before-i-can-draw-off-syrup/
No, you probably won’t see mold develop in 5 days time. However, if the sap is not kept cold, you might end up with what we call “ropey syrup”. It is best to keep the sap/syrup cold.
Kent E Leininger
Thanks Angela! Had a great boil yesterday. Filtered off at 216 degrees through our paper filter cone, then a second filter when further reducing using gas, and finally on the stove to can. Very satisfied with our process. So far this year we have had almost 3 gallons off 25 taps. First batch was a learning process but think I am getting a procedure down. Thanks for the great Dauntless development! Fuel usage has been very very efficient.
Dan Finnel
My trouble too! So why at 150 gallons boiled doesn’t he have syrup? I don’t understand? I too am having the same problem
Angela
Hi Dan,
There are a lot of variables we can look at here.
1. In order for a divided pan to work properly, you need to maintain gradient. How does your gradient look while you are boiling? Here are some great troubleshooting tips and guidelines: SmokyLakeMaple.com/knowledge-base/maintaining-gradient-while-boiling/
2. What is the sugar content of your raw sap? The difference required in boiling time between 1% sugar sap vs 2% sugar sap is double. Check out your starting sugar content using a Sap Hydrometer. Then, you can use the Jones Rule of 86 to calculate how much sap is required to make one gallon of syrup. Or check out the chart on this page: SmokyLakeMaple.com/knowledge-base/what-can-a-reverse-osmosis-ro-system-do-for-me/
3. Last but not least, let’s take a look at the density of the syrup by the draw off in your pan and let’s make sure we are monitoring it’s progress effectively. If you are using a maple thermometer, it is helpful to calibrate it before each boil. Even then, it is extremely important to double check with a hydrometer and Murphy Cup when you start to get close. This will give you the best accuracy.
Re
I read to lower your sap level to 1 inch . It made a huge difference for me.
Kathy
I think the concern would be bacteria growing if the sap is not kept cold.
Angela
Yes, you are correct. It’s best to keep sap cold. For example, at the end of the season, when temperatures start to warm up, then you won’t have the luxury to let the sap sit as long before you boil again. A good rule of thumb is to treat sap like milk.
Sebastian
wI’ve inserted digital thermometers in each layer and I’m noticing that the layer farthest from the exit valve (or the layer where the drip is occuring) is 10-15 celcius warmer than the exit layer. Is this an expected behavior?
Angela
Hi Sebastian
When you say “Layers” are you referring to the different channels in a divided pan? Of course, the cold, raw, incoming sap is going to be coldest section of the pan. As sugars condense, the liquid’s boiling point raises. This means the finished syrup at the draw off is going to boil at a higher temperature than the less condensed sap elsewhere in the pan.
Angela
Aaron
This may be obvious once you’re using a divided pan, but how do you know when to stop drawing off your syrup. I imagine you’ll eventually get to drawing off sap thats not quite ready to be removed. Is it as simple as keeping an eye on the thermometer there at the valve?
Angela
Hi Aaron,
Yes, you are watching the temperature to know when to close the valve. Then you are taking a hydrometer reading with a Murphy Cup to double check everything and verify accuracy.
Cheers
Angela
Cindy
When I get to the end of my sap and have no more to add to my divided pan how do I finish what is in the pan?
Thank you
Angela
Hi Cindy
When you run out of sap at the end of your season, you will have to make a choice whether to finish the remainder of the sweet on a smaller pot, or simply discard it.
Dave F
Continuing with Cindy’s question Angela, when you have sweet left in the divided pan and have no sap left could you continue by adding plain water in place of sap to continue to push the sweet thru to the end?
Cheers
Dave
Angela
Hi Dave
No, chasing with water is not recommended.
Have a great day.
Angela
Jason
Hello, this may be a silly question, but with a divided pan do we boil for awhile then once the level starts to drop below the originial fill of 2″ open the valve from the feedpan to maintain 2″ or do we open the feedpan valve immediately when we first start the boil
Angela
Hi Jason
You should be trickling raw sap into your evaporator pan to maintain your 2″ depth. If your pan is not yet boiling, then no, I suppose there is no immediate need to open the valve on your Feed Pan. Thanks!
Worried
One issue I’m having is once i boil down all my sap and i still haven’t reached that 7 value on the gauge, and I’m roughly at 1 .75 inches – 2 inch level. , i continue to boil and by the time I get to 5-6 on the gauge, the sap now is below the gauge sensor and only about a 1″ death of sap. I’ve never seen it hit the 7 any reason what I’m doing,. The sap evaporates away before it can get an accurate reading, I’m worried I’ll burn the pan up
Angela
Hi. Let’s make sure you are maintaining your gradient. See this help article:
https://www.smokylakemaple.com/knowledge-base/maintaining-gradient-while-boiling/
Mark
This is my first year using a divided finish pan with a feeder pan. When I complete boiling for the day, how do I shut down for the day with a wood fire stove?
Do the pans remain on the stove or should they be removed? If the pans remain on the stove, is it ok if the pans are on heat as the fire dies. Also, I assume it’s ok to start boiling again the next day with keeping the sweet cool?
Angela
Here is our shut down video
https://youtu.be/2Kc6zFnhq5U?si=cqBFoJ002hL8TJQ8